Book Review: Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

The Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace

In his non-fiction book, "Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine," Benjamin Wallace takes readers on a captivating journey into the world of rare and expensive wines and wine fraud. Our first wine book club read, this book offers a compelling exploration of the notorious case of Hardy Rodenstock, a German wine collector and dealer who made headlines with his alleged discovery of extremely rare and valuable bottles, including wines supposedly once owned or purchased by Thomas Jefferson.

Wallace's meticulous research shed light on the controversies surrounding the authenticity and origin of the Jefferson bottles, as well as the intricacies of the wine market and auctions. Through vivid storytelling, he delves into the role played not only by Rodenstock but also by prominent auction houses, wine journalists, and dealers, raising thought-provoking questions about the susceptibility of the wine industry to fraud and the fine line between connoisseurship and deception.

We learn through the book the various methods of wine fraud, including counterfeiting, mislabeling, and blending, and misrepresentation of provenance. Moreover, he sheds light on the risks associated with wine auctions. Counterfeiting emerges as a prevalent method, with fraudsters painstakingly replicating labels, bottles, and packaging of prestigious and high-value wines to create counterfeit bottles that pass as genuine. Empty bottles of rare wines may also be used, filled with inferior substitutes. Mislabeling involves relabeling inexpensive wines with the labels of higher-value counterparts, misleading consumers about the wine's origin, vintage, or producer. Blending and adulteration are employed to create an illusion of heightened quality or rarity by mixing cheaper wines with more expensive ones, sometimes with the addition of chemicals or other substances to alter taste, aroma, or appearance. The misrepresentation of provenance, which refers to a wine's history and origin, involves fabricating documents and records to establish a false narrative that attributes prestigious or desirable origins to the wine, thereby enhancing its allure and perceived value.

As I read the book, I couldn't help but notice striking parallels between Rodenstock's tactics and those employed by notorious figures like Ana Delvey, Elizabeth Holmes, and Harvey Weinstein. These individuals shared the ability to construct illusions of credibility and deflect any doubts cast upon them. Rodenstock's approach resembled that of Elizabeth Holmes, as he fiercely guarded the secrecy surrounding his bottles, refusing to allow them to be analyzed. In a chilling move, Rodenstock even sent an anonymous letter to a skeptic's wife, falsely accusing her husband of infidelity, skillfully diverting attention from questions raised about his own authenticity, reminiscent of Harvey Weinstein's offensive strategy of attacking his accusers' character. Additionally, like Ana Delvey, Rodenstock showered wine journalists with expensive gifts and hosted exclusive wine parties, all aimed at solidifying the exclusivity and allure of his brand. These reflections reveal the pervasive nature of manipulation and deceit across various industries. Regardless of whether the bottles were authentic Thomas Jefferson artifacts or not, Rodenstock's actions shed light on the tactics employed by those driven by ambition, greed, and an unwavering commitment to maintaining their carefully constructed facades of credibility.

The strength of "Billionaire's Vinegar" lies in Wallace's meticulous research. While the book can feel like a historical textbook at times, the abundance of information draws us in. Notably, the author skillfully brings characters like Bill Solokin to life, adding an emotional and relatable element to the narrative. Solokin, a minor character in the story, had acquired one of Rodenstock's Thomas Jefferson Bottles with hopes of selling it for half a million dollars, only to accidentally break the bottle while carrying it to an event. Wallace's attention to detail shines as he describes Solokin's shock and the aftermath of the incident, allowing readers to empathize with his devastating loss.

Here's an excerpt illustrating the scene:

"Arriving home, Sokolin had gingerly removed the bottle from its carrier. Only about five ounces of wine, or 20 percent, remained. He went into the kitchen, where the walls were covered in paper, designed by Gloria, featuring a repeating pattern of signatures of great modern French chefs: Paul Bocuse, Jean Troisgros, Alain Chapel. Solokin poured a small glass for himself, then put the rest of the wine in a small plastic container, which he placed in the freezer. He tasted what was in his glass. It was recognizable as wine, but by no means tasted good. He put the empty bottle on a table in the living room."

The impact of this mishap is further highlighted by the cartoons published in the days following the incident. One cartoon features a man remarking on a stain on the floor, stating, "A Pleasant Stain, but not a great one." Another cartoon depicts a man standing by a stain on the floor, instructing a crowd to "step back and let it breathe."

Bummer Solokin, bummer.

 Sadly, the finish of this story (the final chapter being appropriately titled, "The Finish”) was short, leaving you yearning to revisit the chaotic days of extravagant wine tasting events and drama. Without spoiling any revelations about the fate of Rodenstock or the Jefferson wine bottles, I encourage readers to embark on this journey themselves. "Billionaire's Vinegar" poses thought-provoking questions about the wine industry, challenging us to contemplate the value of investing in and consuming old wines, the allure of rare bottles, and the blurred line between genuine artifacts and forgeries. In conclusion, Benjamin Wallace's book offers an engaging and eye-opening reading experience, combining meticulous research, detailed storytelling, and insightful reflections that will captivate both wine connoisseurs and those interested in tales of drama.