Port is so Last Century! The Rise of Amazing Claret in the home of Fortified Wine
We here at Winers and Lawyers love our value, which has led in large part to our focus on Spanish wines so far in this blog and podcast. But there is another side to the (or should I say of the) Iberian Peninsula, where it can be argued that there is even greater value to be found. Yes, of course, I mean Portugal. Wines produced along the Duero River in Spain provide the climate and minerals necessary for some of Spain’s greatest wines, so it should come as no surprise that those same minerals and conditions exist along that same river when it crosses into Portugal (the conditions don’t change, but the name sure does, to Douro). So what took so long for Portugal to come to the party? Well, that is a story of the necessity of being a small seafaring country trying to keep up with the European elite.
Unsurprisingly, when the Romans took over the Iberian Peninsula, they brought the same wine making techniques to both Spain and Portugal. However, while the start was the same, Portugal, in the 17th century, decided to focus on making wine fortified with brandy. Of course, this is known today as Port, taking its name from the Portuguese town at the end of the Douro River, Porto. It was in Porto that not only did Portuguese ships leave to bring fame and riches to Portugal, but also where British ships would arrive looking for something they could take on their voyages across the Atlantic. Port, with the brandy, was much more stable than regular wine, allowing for it to be used for months on a ship after coming on board. With Britain being a key trading partner with Portugal, the British demand for Port quickly resulted in Douro Valley only producing Port.
Luckily for those of us who love bold red wines at a good price, the end of World War II ushered in a new era in the Douro valley, one where the demand for Port waned and the stability in Europe allowed for new ventures. The Douro valley moved into the production of claret and it has not looked back.
The value of Portuguese wines stems from many factors. Portugal is home to a vast array of indigenous grape varieties, many of which are not commonly found in other wine-producing regions. These unique grape varieties contribute to the distinct flavors and character of Portuguese red wines. In addition, the cost of production and labor in Portugal can be lower than in other wine regions. The combination of lower production cost with less well known varietals that still produce wonderful complex reds leads to the tremendous value that can be found in Portugal.
For our tasting this week, we tried the 2017 La Rosa Reserva, the flagaship wine from Quinta de la Rosa, which is located in the Douro Valley. This wine is made with 100% Touriga Nacional, with an alcohol content of 14%. I was very excited to try this wine, as the 2017 vintage was considered a strong one in Portugal, and this was supposed to be a very complex, bold red. It did not disappoint!
From the second it was poured into the decanter, I was excited. It sat heavy in the glass, with a dark ruby color blocking out all light. As I poured it into the and moved my nose over the glass, the dark color was matched by a bouquet of dark, jammy fruits, wiht plam, blackberries and cherries leading the way. But it was not aggressive, but mellow, with the tannins having softened. Finally, the taste as fantastic, as it had heft on the tongue and a strong spicy, vanilla note to go with the dark fruit tastes that the nose suggested. Overall, it struck me a bit like being in the woods right before the storm; it was dark, and full, and earthly, and heavy. 4.3.
Winery Quinta de La Rosa
Grapes 100% Touriga Nacional
Region Portugal / Northern Portugal / Duriense / Douro
Wine style Portuguese Douro Red
Alcohol content 14%